🔗 Share this article ‘Every Chef Ought to Train Here’: Humble Turkish Dining Spot Earns Fourth on Roll of London’s Top Food Spots. Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end venues. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant corner of northern London. A Unexpected Accolade This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The honour has made the family totally shocked. “I am utterly astonished,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list. A Character of Simplicity This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner. A Signature Creation: Tantuni Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality. The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside. The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony. Other Than the Basic Tantuni Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”. When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced flavour. Surpassing the Stars Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations. Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that price. The Creed of Heart The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner. “In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.” The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”. The Journey of Hard Work Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son. A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work. “My mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares. An Achievement for the Community The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary honour.